We drove, or rather our tour bus driver drove us from Cambodia to Vietnam where we had to go through border control. There, we were approached by money-exchangers. Some of the more seasoned travelers readily changed money, and at first I was apprehensive, but decided to take a risk with $20. As it turns out, the money we got was kosher and the exchange rate was really good. I wish I had changed more. So getting back to money. In my earlier blogs I have mentioned that I like to change my money in the US banks before traveling, especially if I am going somewhere that I have never been before or someplace where ATMs are rare. Unfortunately, Vietnamese currency is not available in the USA. It is recommended, and for good reason, to bring a few hundred dollars with you in $20 denominations and smaller. It is also recommended to have at least $25 in singles on hand. If your money is new and crisp it is often preferred. If you have money that is wrinkled, or torn, you will have trouble using it.
Chaos
Insanity
It is said that the Greeks have a word for it, whatever it is. For my Greek-speaking readers the word “Χαμος” best describes the roads, sidewalks, and traffic of both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Chaotic would be the best English descriptor. While the driving in Athens, in Rome, in Delhi, in Bangkok, and other major cities of the world is insane, so far, I have yet to see what compares to what I witnessed in the two major Vietnamese cities I visited.
On the plus side, the crime-rate is negligible if existent at all. The food is AMAZING, the people are friendly, and it is very lively. But you have to take a lesson on how to cross the street and navigate the sidewalks in order to protect yourself from erratic drivers who do not follow all of the rules of the road, or make them up as they go.
Motorcycles are everywhere, even on the sidewalks and within the pedestrian zones, some going at speeds that should only be seen on the highway, making unexpected u-turns, driving on the wrong side of the street, and not stopping for red-lights.
Interestingly the footwear worn on motorcycles is not what I would have dared to have worn. Beautiful high-heeled shoes were not uncommon in the streets of Vietnam.
Sidewalks are more for parking motorcycles than they are for pedestrians.
Would I recommend Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, YES. Once you understand the craziness of the roads, and get over your fear of being hit by a motorcycle, you will have an enjoyable holiday.
Thinking about traveling on your own and renting a car or motorcycle in Vietnam, probably not a good idea.
During the day, motorcycles are transportation for work, at night, for fun.
So much to see, so much culture to absorb, so much history
As for history, the Vietnam war was one that scarred not only the nation of Vietnam but the hearts and souls of many American soldiers who returned with physical and emotional trauma from which many have not fully recovered. Should we have been there? Probably not. Were innocent lives lost? Without a doubt. Has there ever in human history been a war or conflict in which innocent lives have not been lost? The tragedy of war is compounded when conflicts are unnecessary and accomplish nothing.
Horrifying.
The War museum in Ho Chi Minh City brings to light the human suffering that occurred during the Vietnam conflict.
Seeing the photographs in the war museum of the faces of the Vietnamese from the period of this civil war was heart wrenching. Thinking of the young men who were conscripted to fight was also difficult.
Was communism defeated in this war? NO.
At the end of the Vietnam conflict, the vietnamese were living in an egalitarian society where everyone, despite what they did earned the same sustenance allocation. Monetary rewards and bonuses did not exist. Farmers moved into the cities for an easier life and soon there was a shortage of food. As we can reluctantly admit, given the choice of working hard to subsist or taking an easier path for the same rewards, most people will opt for the easy solution. Humans tend to follow the path of least resistance. .
Thankfully the Vietnamese government realized that something had to be done before their country fell into famine, Land that had been taken away from farmers was given to those willing to work the fields. Those farmers are now allowed to sell their crops in open markets.
Is a free market starting to emerge in Vietnam? It seems like it might be.
At the crack of dawn every morning, entrepreneurial men and women go to the farmers markets with baskets on their bicycles, or head to the streets with these baskets overflowing.
By sunset, most of their produce has been sold and they can rest until the following day.
Those with more capital build homes that have a business on the first floor and an apartment on the second.
There are malls with international stores but thankfully there are also many small independently owned small shops as well.
The bazaars or markets are still common and a place where you can purchase almost anything. Including the beautiful belt that I purchased from the vendor below.
Is Vietnam an ideal society? No? Is there any such thing?
Vietnam is a poor country but one that appears, at least to tourists, to be moving in a positive direction.
Just like in capital cities around the world, there is a changing of the guard ceremony in Hanoi. This takes place in front of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum at 9 PM daily. Unfortunately we were there earlier in the day and did not make it back to see this ceremony.
There are theaters
Children go on field trips
There are Art Galleries
Beautiful Parks
And if you plan you trip right, or if you luck out - Festivals
We enjoyed the Hanoi Tourism Festival which was held from March 23–26, 2023.
The festival took place in the pedestrian zone around Hoan Kiem (Restored Sword) Lake.
The theme this year was "Connecting heritage for tourism development"
One way to get and keep fit...
Teachers take students to parks in order to provide them an opportunity to interview tourists and practice their English. These cuties interviewed us.
Marking the 1000th anniversary of Thang Long, at 3850 meters, the Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic mural is one of the longest tiled street art projects in the world.
Click on the links to see more examples of Vietnamese Street Art
And of course there is the Greek influence
There is a beautiful cathedral
There is also wonderful hand-painted street art
Murals can be found on buildings, power boxes, and lunch trucks.
The public art project on Phung Hung Street, Hanoi, is the result of a collaboration of Vietnamese and Korean artists. This wonderful work can be seen on the arch walls along the Long Bien Bridge.
In Hanoi there is a very famous train that runs through the heart of the city’s Old Quarter. Here you can see how the “locals” co-exist with the train.
There are two ways you can attempt to see the train, stand at the street crossing with hundreds of other tourists, or get to one of the trackside cafes early to score a table.
Most of the time you can wander the tracks and get to cafes…
But not always.
There is no absence of color
Every once in a while you will see an extreme case of color coordination where everything matches perfectly, either by accident or intentionally.
Sorry but I have to repeat myself…And the food is AMAZING - with great vegan options
We were never disappointed in a meal. There were so many fresh vegetables and the seasoning was beyond perfect.
One place we visited, which we loved, was tucked away on a side street and up to a second floor with a narrow staircase. If you visit Hanoi and manage to find this place, you will have an extraordinary meal.
The signage is sparse and when you do find the place and start to walk up the stairs, you may be turned off by the hanging electrical wire and condition of the building. Do not let that deter you. Climb the stairs and you will find a cozy restaurant where you will have one of your best meals. No you will not get sick, mugged, or electrocuted, bottled water is used, and everything is super fresh.
How did restaurateur William get his start? After the war with the US was over, Vietnam was the poorest country in the world with barefoot children, and mass starvation.
William, born in 1979, worked at an early age as a shoe polisher. Some foreigners were impressed by him, and enrolled him in Hoang Hoa Tham secondary school. As a student. he worked in a restaurant and in 2001, had the honor of serving President Bill Clinton.
In 2018, William opened his restaurant, Katze Vegan & Vegetarian Restaurant and at the same time operated a motorbike taxi to pay his bills. The rest is history. If you can find this place, you will have a wonderful meal.
All this for 290,000 dong or about $11.42
On our last day in Hanoi, we decided to eat at a fancy restaurant and so we went to Sadhu Vegetarian Restaurant and were glad that we did.
Cautious of food allergies, we spoke with our server and he selected the food from the buffet that we could eat and what to avoid. As luck would have it, all except one dish was off limits. We ate well.
Below are images of some of the things we enjoyed. This restaurant provided the best and broadest sampling of meatless Vietnamese fare during our trip.
And a beautiful iced soup
Absolutely marvelous.
We had soup, we had appetizers, we had entrees and sides and desert and beverages and excellent service and were terrified to see the bill. At home a meal like this would easily be over $180. In March of 2023, in Hanoi, Vietnam, in an upscale restaurant, it was $35.
We felt sated and satisfied after our meal but not weighed down. I wish this restaurant was near me.
Our trip was amazing, and at the same time affordable. If it wasn't so far away, I would visit often. Hopefully I will be able to return someday.
In addition to visiting the capital cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, we went on a river cruise and on a day trip to a bird sanctuary, Both were worthwhile and will be in a future blog post.
We hope your virtual visit to Vietnam
Please join us in our next blog segment when we travel to Evia, Greece.
If you missed my previous blog segment: Cambodia, Phnom Penh |The City of the Brahmas Faces https://www.photographybymariasavidis-blog.com/post/phnom-penh-the-city-of-the-brahma-s-faces
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